![]() 03/28/2016 at 12:36 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
This is a picture of the (a) tie rod as used on a W124 Benz. Most of them, that is. This is not the tie rod which is used on the 4MATIC models. No, that would be this:
The spindle is different, so the outer end is different, so the rod is different (shorter). Here is where the derp sets in. The inner rod end is almost completely identical to the normal inner tie rod end, except that its threads are RH instead of LH. Do autopart stores -or even RockAuto - recognize this fact and list the inner correctly? Do they bollocks.
tl;dr: My dad ordered the wrong tie rod end for his car Friday.
tl;dr 2: Real dick move not reusing your parts sanely there, Benz.
tl;dr 3: Especially since your normal tie rod reuses as an outer end an end which is the standard inner on a W123, I mean what the fuck.
![]() 03/28/2016 at 12:37 |
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If they’re so close, can’t you just unscrew the ends a bit to lengthen them or is it too much for that?
![]() 03/28/2016 at 12:38 |
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Since I wasn’t replacing a tie rod end, I spent the afternoon Friday hammering out sheet metal. Saturday I was cutting the bottom off a door and advising hull work on a hovercraft. Y’know, like you do.
![]() 03/28/2016 at 12:41 |
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Still better than my ball joint separation issues
![]() 03/28/2016 at 12:43 |
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Unfortunately, the 4MATIC outer ends have that kink in them for a reason - to better clear the tire. I tried a couple approaches: finding an alternate Moog p/n for the inner (out of production) or close to the right length (no 10mm taper stud), an outer with a kink in the opposite thread pitch (got close, but no), and some other things. I’d have loved to use the normal rod inner with a swap on the outer, but that wasn’t happening. There is a specialty store he’s got the right one ordered from now, but all possibilities of putting it back on the road Friday weren’t happening.
![]() 03/28/2016 at 12:45 |
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Well, yeah, but possibly more stupider. Benz were going out of their way on this one to be stupid unless some supplier was only supplying those kinked outer ends with LH thread - a premise on which I call bullshit.
![]() 03/28/2016 at 12:49 |
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Honestly man, I’m still pissed there’s 3 control arms per side. 1 upper, 2 lower.
Thanks Mazda (it’s their chassis, not Ford’s)
![]() 03/28/2016 at 12:54 |
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That being said, use of a lower control arm with a track rod (like another lower arm) used to be absolutely standard for Ford, so it’s not as huge a step away from normal as it might be.
![]() 03/28/2016 at 13:41 |
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Always reminds me of the funky coil on the 4matics
![]() 03/28/2016 at 13:49 |
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Yep. Somewhere, I think it was a Hyundai-Kia plant, I remember seeing a spring process that was doing that same little trick for another car. If it’s crazy and it works, it isn’t necessarily crazy...
![]() 03/28/2016 at 17:04 |
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And this is why you do not deal with W124 4matics. They have the possibility of being even worse to source parts for than, say, an R129 SL.
![]() 03/28/2016 at 17:14 |
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Feh. It’s not like the steering wheel position sensor is hideously expensive or they’re going to have hard to diagnose gremlins in the ABS. Oh wait.
![]() 03/28/2016 at 21:07 |
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No, they just cause other semi-related issues, like dealing with the front wheels turned, so therefore the 4Matic light goes on until you pull the hydraulic coupler unlock under the hood to disable 4Matic.